Putting a track back on a skid steer is a straightforward job once you understand the sequence, but it requires patience, the right tools, and a safe setup. Whether your track came off in the field or you’re reinstalling after a repair, the process follows the same basic steps: release the tension, position the track over the undercarriage, walk it onto the sprocket and idler, then re-tension to spec.
Tools and Setup Before You Start
You’ll need a pry bar (or two), a grease gun, a tape measure, and a suitable lifting device. A track for a compact track loader can weigh several hundred pounds depending on the machine size, so trying to manhandle it by hand is neither safe nor practical. A loader, forklift, or overhead hoist works well. Some operators use a second machine to hold the track in position while they guide it onto the undercarriage.
Park the skid steer on flat, solid ground. If only one track came off, the machine will be sitting at an angle, so chock the remaining track and make sure the loader arms are lowered with any attachments resting on the ground. Shut off the engine and engage the parking brake before you get underneath anything.
Release the Track Tension
Before you try to fit the track back on, you need slack in the undercarriage. On most compact track loaders, tension is controlled by a grease-filled hydraulic cylinder near the front idler. Look for a grease fitting (sometimes called a tension valve) on the side of the undercarriage frame. Slowly crack open the relief valve to let grease escape, which allows the front idler to slide inward and creates the slack you need to get the track over the sprocket teeth and rollers.
Go slowly here. The cylinder is under significant pressure, and grease can shoot out forcefully if you open it too fast. Use a rag or shield around the fitting, and keep your face and hands clear of the release path. Once the idler has retracted and you have visible slack in the system, you’re ready to position the track.
Position the Track on the Undercarriage
Start at the rear. Lay the track out behind the machine and use your lifting device to bring the back end of the track up and over the rear sprocket. Position the track so the lugs (the raised rubber teeth on the inside surface) sit inside the rear idler. The lugs need to engage the sprocket teeth, so take a moment to line them up before moving forward.
Next, drape the upper portion of the track forward along the top of the undercarriage frame, over the carrier rollers. Then bring the front of the track down and onto the front idler, pressing the teeth against it. This is the step where a lifting device earns its keep. You’re holding the weight of the track while trying to align internal teeth with grooves on the idler, and doing it by hand is extremely difficult on anything larger than a mini machine.
Walk the Track Into Place
With the track draped over the sprocket and idler but not yet fully seated, you need to work it into the grooves. Place your pry bars above the front idler, skipping about two teeth between each bar. Then rotate the track toward the idler, letting the teeth drop into their grooves as you go. Use the pry bar to lever stubborn sections into position, working your way around the idler until the track is fully engaged.
Some operators find it helpful to briefly start the engine and use the drive motor to slowly rotate the sprocket, which pulls the track into alignment as it moves. If you do this, keep all hands, feet, and tools completely clear of the track path. Never reach into the undercarriage while the track is moving. Have a spotter if possible, and only bump the drive control in short, controlled pulses.
Once the track is seated on the sprocket, idler, and all the mid-rollers, visually inspect both sides to make sure the track is centered and the lugs are properly engaged along the entire length. A track that looks seated but has one section riding up on a roller will come off again quickly under load.
Re-Tension the Track
With the track fully in place, use your grease gun to pump grease back into the tension cylinder through the same fitting you released earlier. This pushes the front idler outward and takes up the slack. Add grease in small increments, checking tension as you go.
To measure tension, look at the lower run of the track between the bottom rollers. The gap from the top of the lower track run to the bottom of one of the rollers should measure about 1 inch. That 1-inch sag is the general target for most machines, but your owner’s manual may specify a slightly different figure for your particular model. Too tight and you’ll accelerate wear on the sprocket, rollers, and track itself. Too loose and the track can derail again, especially during turns or on uneven terrain.
After tensioning, walk around the machine and visually confirm the track is tracking straight and sitting evenly on all components. Start the engine, raise the side off the ground if possible (using the loader arms on a solid surface), and slowly rotate the track through several full revolutions. Watch for any spots where the track climbs, binds, or sits unevenly. If everything looks smooth, lower the machine back down.
Why Tracks Come Off
Understanding what caused the derailment helps you prevent it from happening again. The most common cause is incorrect tension. A track that’s too loose has enough play to walk off the idler during sharp turns or when working on slopes. Check your tension regularly, ideally at the start of each work day, because tracks stretch over time and temperature changes affect rubber compliance.
Worn sprockets and idlers are another frequent culprit. When the teeth on the sprocket wear down, they no longer grip the track lugs securely, and the track can skip and eventually derail. Debris packed into the undercarriage, particularly rocks, mud, or frozen material wedged between the rollers and the track, can also force a track out of alignment. Cleaning out the undercarriage at the end of each day goes a long way toward preventing buildup.
Operating style matters too. Aggressive turning, especially pivot turns on hard surfaces, puts enormous lateral force on the track. Wide, sweeping turns are far gentler on the undercarriage than spinning one side in place.
How Long the Job Takes
For someone who has done it before with the right tools on hand, reinstalling a single track typically takes 30 to 60 minutes. Your first time will likely take longer, especially if you’re figuring out the tension system on your specific machine. Having a second person to help guide the track and operate the lifting device can cut the time significantly and makes the job much safer. If the track came off due to a damaged sprocket, worn idler, or bent undercarriage component, those parts need to be addressed before reinstalling, which adds time and may require ordering parts from your dealer.